Nifty Fifty The last “true independents” in Houston’s grocery scene

Let’s start today with a question: how many independent supermarkets does Houston have left? I was asked this a short while ago on Facebook, and the answer I came up with is around 50, according to my definition. So what exactly counts as independent in my book? Well, let’s start with the simplest terms: they’re independently owned and do not have a specific niche. This creates a broad category but immediately eliminates a few contenders, such as La Michocana and its related banners. While LMM is locally owned and worth reading about, its operations are predominantly aimed towards Hispanic shoppers. LMM is also debatable, as the ownership holds a grocery distribution company named Excel. The independent grocer model is an old one in which stores rely on wholesalers for a variety of functions. From supplying groceries to managing inventory, independents rely on outsiders for many core functions. While Excel is technically a separate company, it is just another arm of the Ortega family’s empire.

So, what are some examples I would consider? Well, for starters, Food Town. I don’t think Food Town needs much of an introduction, but we’ll still give it one. Founded in 1994, Food Town is largely controlled by the Lewis family. Patriarch Ross Lewis had been a major player in Houston’s grocery scene since the 60s, and after climbing to the top of the latter at Food City, decided to strike out on his own. With a group of employees behind him and the support of Grocers Supply Co, Lewis started by taking over three poorly performing Gerland’s locations. From there, the Lewis family grew Food Town to an eventual 33 locations at its height, many of them former Gerland’s. These days, Food Town has slimmed down to about 26 locations. It is by far the largest independent chain in the Houston area.

Next, we have Foodarama. Founded by Carrol Cox in 1973, Foodarama has had its ups and downs over the years, but has always remained a small chain. At present, Foodarama still holds a respectable eight locations across the Houston area. Still owned by descendants of the Cox family, Foodarama has been fluctuating a bit lately. Some of their stores have been downsized, but they also recently acquired a closing independent store in Texas City. Foodarama has never been a huge chain, but its continued commitment to Houston has earned it relatively loyal customers in the areas it serves.

So we’re already at 34 locations, combining the two largest independent chains. Which leaves about 16 more to figure out to hit the 50 stores mentioned earlier. The next group of supermarkets is a loosely connected independent chain. All the stores are similar in operation and location and are owned by the Vuong family. The best known of these stores is likely Pyburns. With two locations at present, Pyburns was originally opened by the Pyburn family sometime in the 1950s. Like many of the other stores owned by the Vuong family, it was passed among owners over the years. In addition to Pyburns, the Vuongs also operate Middleton Supermarket, Bi-Rite Supermarket, Jensen Supermarket, Sing-On Supermarket, and Payless Supermarket. Between these various locations, we can add about 10 more locally owned stores.

So now we’ve got about six stores left, let’s see what we can pin down. First, I think it’s worth mentioning O LAN O Supermarket. Originally known as Orlando’s Supermarket, the store later had its name changed by a later owner to O LAN O. At this point, we reach supermarkets where I’m not totally sure who owns them. I wouldn’t doubt that some overlap in ownership exists here, but for the most part, these seem to be single-location operations. Others include Langley Supermart and Big City Foods. Two competitors are only a few blocks apart on Homestead Road. For our final three stores, we have to hit the extreme reaches of the area. Near Conroe, we have a single remaining Harvest Market Grocery Store. Harvest Market is a strange story, but they maintain one single location out of the four that were opened. Out in Dayton, we have the Thrif-Tee Food Center, and down in Alvin, we finish out with Stanton’s.

So there we are, the approximately 50 or so truly independent supermarkets left in town. While some are far more visible than others, the art of independent grocery is not yet dead in Houston. Although it is on life support compared to 15 years ago. These days, chains control most major areas, leaving mostly lower-income areas for the independents to claim. The days of high-end independent chains like Rice Epicurean catering to River Oaks are long gone. A lack of options in suppliers, co-op systems, and general support for independents is a contributing cause. While independent grocery stores aren’t gone in Houston, they’re not doing great either. I would not be surprised if, sometime in the near future, we see the return of Piggly Wiggly independents via C&S Wholesale (the current owners of Grocers Supply Co). However, only time will tell if this comes true.